![]() I didn’t listen, I searched the internet endlessly and finally found a white stock 1960 Thunderbird. They all said that was such an ugly model. When I started looking for a second-generation Thunderbird people thought I was crazy. How such a car is overlooked is beyond me. I had a few cars that I really wanted but being a ZZ Top fan I was exposed to Billy Gibbons 1959 Thunderbird “Mexican Blackbird”. After owning and tinkering with the car for several years I sold the car locally.Īt that point, I was on the hunt to buy the right car. I came to realize that in this scene it’s much better to buy a two-door car when it comes to customizing. It was a 4-door that was stock, except for the dual exhaust. I bought the car on the cheap, as I was new to the game. My dad and I drove to Motor City (Detroit) Michigan on a Saturday in November of 2007. My introduction into the hot rod custom car scene was with a 1949 shoebox about 13 years ago. I did all this in about 3-4 hours.FORD Classics - Fall 1960 Ford Thunderbird A new shifter lever arm and roll pin would make it all the more likely to achieve the results you would be happy with. While you have it apart, you should also replace the shift detent plate if you haven't already. Before you put the new Shift Tube Selector Arm on, be sure that it fits over the tube and locking lug with just enough clearance to allow it to slide up and down smoothly, but not as loose as the old one! This is critical.Ĩ. The picture shows a complete steering column, but the shift lever, shift collar, and steering column would have been removed.ħ. The shift tube and selector arm will now slide out leaving only the steering shaft in place. Disconnect the steering column from the clamp under the dash. It is important to also mark the position of the neutral switch before loosening it).Ħ. Disconnect the neutral switch wires (label the wires you disconnect from. (replace the shift collar and shift lever if both are worn, especially if it is at all worn around the roll pin).Ĥ. ![]() Then take off the shift collar after unscrewing the shift lever and turn signal lever. ![]() In a nutshell ġ.You will need to pull the steering wheel.Ģ. ![]() You asked what's involved and it's a pretty big job. Before you start this, disconnect the battery! Here is the step by step account of how Neil replaced his worn Shift Tube Selector Arm. If you do, you will have them to fall back on when you start putting things back together. As we always say before you start any project and as you go, take a lot of pictures. Replacing it can be time consuming, and may be difficult, but the results are worth it. Luckily, that part is available new from many of our vendors these days. What happens is that the inside ring and the notch in the ring can become worn and cause it not to function correctly. This is something that is often overlooked. He has said that in many cases, he found the Shift Tube Selector Arm to be the main culprit, worn or defective, and in need of replacement. One of our Down Under members has many years experience working on shift linkage and COM transmissions. After some 50 years all of these can become worn and cause problems. Many of us have gone the route of replacing our worn shift lever, worn collar, worn detent plate, but not the Shift Tube Selector Arm. There is one item that is often missed when trying to fix those problems. Sloppy shifting on the steering column, improper indication of which gear you are in, dropping out of Park into Reverse unexpectidly are all problems that many of us have had to contend with. The following information was provided to us by Neil Swartz - cuul59. 1958-1960 Thunderbird Shift Tube Selector Arm Replacement ![]()
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